September's Over?

Yikes - it's been over a month since I last posted. My schedule going into September was packed, but I did not realize how crazy it was going to be. Along with getting married myself over the Long Weekend and hosting some relatives who flew in for the wedding, I was also working with three other wedding parties on their September/October weddings; my wife almost killed me for accepting the work.

It all started on the last weekend of August; my brother had organized a Bachelor Party Weekend on my behalf, filled with too many drinks and too little recovery time. Thankfully, my friends were nice and did not make it their goal to obliterate my liver over the two nights, so I was I was able to meet with Shawn and his groomsmen on Sunday morning to get everyone fitted for their charcoal wool suits. These guys had designed their own pink-accented shirts which I don't see everyday; it was great to see the final product.

Pink bow ties, squares, and shirt accents (though it's hard to see in this pic).

The groomsmen, all suited up for their fitting.

After Shawn's group was finalized, I learned that one of his groomsmen, Yishi, was also getting married at the end of October. Yishi asked if he could also get some suits for his groomsmen, so we decided to have his party come over that same day and get measured up. The wedding is set to take place in the Caribbean in late October, so the guys went with white wool suits to combat the heat. It was a crazy morning, to say the least.

About an hour later, my wife and I ran over to Lucas Haneman's place to get his groomsmen fitted, admittedly a bit tired. But, Lucas and Megan (Lucas's fiancé) were great hosts and the fittings went smoothly. Their wedding actually took place yesterday, and we were honoured to have been invited. I'll have more pictures later, but for the time being I found this this photo of Lucas and his brother Tyler:

Tyler on the left, Lucas on the right.

After I was able to finalize Shawn's, Yishi's and Lucas's wedding suits, we (finally) had time to finish up our own wedding suits. Suiting up my own groomsmen was a logistical Rubik's Cube in itself since three of the four guys don't live in Ottawa, and to make things more interesting, one of them decided to lose about 100 lbs (!) from the date I measured him to the date of my wedding. Leave it up to your best friends to throw you the ultimate curve ball, right? Nonetheless, it was amazing to see his transformation. I don't have many photos at my disposal presently, but Joey Rudd is currently finalizing some photos so I'll be sure to post some soon.

Our wedding (September 5, 2015)

Our wedding came and went; most people say your wedding day goes by too fast, but I actually thought the pace was just fine. Maybe it was the fact that it was held at La Grange put me at such ease. I cannot recommend that venue enough.

After the wedding, we took my wife's parents, who were visiting Canada for the first time, to a few places around Ottawa as well as Niagra Falls. On the way to Niagra we stopped by Toronto and I was able to drop off a few suits to an old friend of mine, Brigs, who now teaches at a private school. The timing could not have worked out any better.

Brigs, in a very sharp teal suit.

Once we returned from Niagra, I met up with a client who was, coincidentally enough, looking for a suit to be made in time for Lucas's wedding.

Doug Forbes, who coincidentally enough, was also
in attendance at Lucas's wedding.

Somewhere in between all the suits, fabrics, threads etc. I managed to squeeze a honeymoon in Mexico. And that was my September. I guess it was a bit crazy.

Husky Strategy

At the request of a reader who read The Short Game, I've compiled a list of tips for the Husky Gentleman. Admittedly, I had to look up what 'husky' meant; embarrassing, I know. What can I say? Urban Dictionary has been a godsend.

Anyways, hope these tips will help out a few gentlemen out there. Please note that these strategies are not just for the husky gentleman, but could also be used for the tall or large-framed man.

Focus on the fit. A lot.

Regardless of the colour, style or fabric, the fit of a suit will always be the most important factor. For the husky gentleman, it's often natural to pick out a suit that is bigger than your frame, mostly because it's better than going with a suit that's too tight. And, it gives you breathing room in case you put on a few extra pounds later. Nonetheless, try to find a suit that drapes naturally over your body; there shouldn't be any significant creases, bulging or air pockets. Always try to find a suit that has clean lines around your shoulders (i.e. virtually no air pockets) and chest (the suit lapels should drape downwards without disturbance).

Stick to solid coloured suits.

Patterned and textured suits can look really nice on a man, but may be overwhelming, especially if you are on the husky side. For example, a window pane suit (pictured below) looks fashionable and trendy, but the square pattern aims to make the wearer appear wider and bigger. This effect is likely the opposite of what a husky gentleman would want.

Therefore, it would be safer to go with a solid suit. But do not confused 'safe' with 'boring'; there is nothing boring about a safe suit, especially if it complements the wearer's body frame. If you'd like to add some pattern, wear a patterned tie and/or pocket square to add a little extra texture.

Go with a wider lapel and tie.

The general rule of thumb is to have the tie width be the same as the suit jacket lapel. That way, the ensemble looks balanced and proportionate.

For those who have broad shoulders, going with wider suit jacket lapels and ties can add additional balance to your look. A standard lapel/tie will usually be around 2.5~3.0 inches; therefore, you could try going with a 3.5~4.0 inch lapel/tie combination instead to cover more real estate across your chest and make your look even more proportionate.

For example, Dwayne Johnson (pictured above left) has really broad shoulders and often goes with extra-wide peak lapels and ties, which goes well with his frame.

Cater to your face.

What?

While not crucial, picking out a particular shirt collar to go with the shape of your face can make a difference when putting your look together. For those with round faces, a forward point collar is the most complementary since the collar is longer and downward pointing, making the wearer appear thinner. Conversely, those with angular shaped faces could choose to wear semi or full spread collars.

Wear straight cut pants.

L to R: Slim, Fitted, Straight, Loose

Finally, going with straight cut pants is recommended for the husky gentleman. Slim fit or extreme tapering may be very uncomfortable for larger individuals (especially in the thigh area) and the appearance may not be flattering. If the wearer really tapers his pants (i.e. small ankle openings), it will make him look extremely top heavy, especially if his mid-section and chest are broad. The imbalance will be reminiscent of the guys who skip leg day at the gym.

"There is no such thing as leg day," said this champion.

At the end, it really comes down to fit. You can play with all the colours, fabrics and styles all you want, but the fit will really determine whether you look put together or not. If you do generally wear suits that are too big, try going down a size; the end result is cleaner lines, less bulging and a better look. I'm not saying that you should go out and wear the smallest suit you can fit into, but it might be worth trying on a jacket that's just a touch closer to your skin. It never hurts to try out a fitted jacket.

It also never hurts to exercise your legs.

Small Business Man (2) - Backup

When I was studying for my CA (now CPA) exams, there was always a case question where a company didn't have a back up plan. The case facts would simply state "XYZ Corp. doesn't back up their data" or "Mr. Smith said he doesn't need a disaster recovery plan because a disaster has never happened before." My study-buddies and I loved these types of cases because the answer was always "Get a backup plan." That's it, that's all. Full marks for everyone.

It's so trivial to have a backup. I remember thinking those cases were such nonsense; why was I paying money to write exams that taught me to recommend having a backup? Isn't that common sense?

Yes, having a backup plan is common sense, but having now had some experience both in the CPA profession and running YourSuit, I can honestly say that having a backup plan - and implementing one - is not as easy as it sounds, and it often gets lost on the to-do list. There are enough challenges out there in running a business day-to-day, let alone going the extra distance to prepare for a disaster.

For YourSuit, delivery is key. If a client needs a suit ASAP, coordination between us and our suppliers and shippers needs to be orchestrated quickly and accurately. Sounds cliché, but it's exactly like a bike chain; should one chain break or fail, the pedaling stops. It doesn't matter how good our other chains are; the fact that one of them failed has stopped the entire process, and if it takes too long to fix, the process ultimately comes to a halt and the deadline is missed.

It's easy to "hope" that the chains won't break, but let's face it: shit happens. I've learned early on (thanks CPA exams) that preventing a disaster (or at least preparing for one) is much better than detecting disaster. If you've detected a disaster, it's already happened; the climb is all uphill from there.

I've learned to be more proactive in building backups. Got a good shipper? Great, find another two that are equally as good or better. Found a great supplier? Excellent, keep looking for more. More backups lead to more insurance, which means that recovery should be significantly easier should a break in the chain occur. And at the end, the delivery will  be made.

Off to see about a few more backups...

How to Beat the Heat

From "Charity Drive" - Arrested Development, S1 E5

If you've been living in Ottawa (or the greater southern Ontario region) this summer, you'll know that we've just recently endured one of the hottest, stickiest two-week stints in quite some time. The humidity has been near 100% and temperatures were reaching the high thirties, sometimes even forties (Celsius). This past weekend's cooler temperatures were a welcoming relief, but it's entirely possible that another heat wave will present itself.

For most, suits definitely wouldn't be the first choice when combating extreme heat, but in many cases it's unavoidable. (i.e. work, weddings, etc.) But is there anything you can do to beat the heat? Definitely, and here are some options:

Don't ride a bike while wearing a suit in a heat wave.

--- OK, that was just for the Arrested Development fans out there. If you haven't watched Arrested Development, do yourself a favor and binge-watch the entire series.

Wear a lighter-coloured suit.

If you have the option of wearing a lighter colour, do it. Dark suits, such as navies, charcoals and blacks absorb a lot more light under the sun and heat up much more than a light coloured suit.

Can you get by with just a vest?

This may not work in all circumstances, but consider scraping the jacket for a day and just go with a vest. Going without a jacket may be too informal for some occasions, but subbing in a vest instead will keep your look more formal and cool (both temperature and style wise).

Stay away from synthetic fabrics.

Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, nylon or some other sort of poly blend, are produced entirely from chemicals and do not breathe as well as natural fabrics such as cotton and wool. While synthetics have great advantages (such as durability, affordability and structure), natural fabrics are much better in dealing with extreme heat. Contrary to popular belief, a wool suit will actually be much cooler in the summer than a synthetic because there is better ventilation (wool will also be warmer in the winter). In addition, natural fabrics tend to be lighter in weight than a synthetic, so the wearer will actually feel lighter when wearing a natural fabric.

The lining in suits also varies from synthetic to natural fabrics; if you go with a natural fabric lining, chances are the suit will be more breathable.

And finally, the best way to beat the heat is...

To wear cutoffs like Tobias.

Colour Guide

I found this very comprehensive colour guide (see below) which shows what types of shoes go well with certain suits. It's a great reference for those who wish to have a little guidance. Hope this helps you the next time you're contemplating what to wear!

Small Business Man (1) - Just Try

Michael Scott, the ultimate Small Business Man.

I mentioned previously that this blog may include topics around business. While general posts have been built around custom tailored suits and budget-friendly style tips, I have finally had time to reflect on the first half of 2015 and I thought I'd share a few tidbits.

YourSuit came from my desire to start a business, fused with my interest in menswear (kind of sounds like Michael Scott's Shoe-La-La, eh?). 

It was formally created at the beginning of 2015; prior to that, I operated under my own name. Looking back at the last six months, I really wish I had created YourSuit earlier; the response has surpassed my expectations, and it makes me wonder where I'd be had I started sooner. But, hindsight is always 20/20 I guess.

Fear of failure was the biggest reason for procrastinating the start of YourSuit. When you want to start something (or create something new), you're taking a risk, and that may ultimately lead to the risk of failure. A second concern I had was the reaction of others; I wondered whether my peers would think I was crazy, in over my head, or just plain obnoxious.

The exact opposite has been true. My colleagues, friends and complete strangers have been extremely supportive, and many have either become loyal clients or brought me referrals. From YourSuit, I've met some really interesting - and inspiring - gentlemen; aspiring athletes, fathers, industry professionals, grooms-to-be and their respective entourages, etc. I was able to snap a couple photos with some of the gents, shown below. 

Dakota Sinclair - stopping pucks (and hearts) since 1995.

Jim Baba, Baseball Canada - looking like a grand-slam.

Tuan Le, OHCD LLP - giving Beckham a run for his money.

Rob Peixoto, Halogen - who has gone through an incredible
transformation (he used to be 300lbs).

Knowing what I know now, I should have started YourSuit years ago. But the act of trying tends to freak a lot of people out, whether it's a new food or something else. Not too long ago I was having dinner with a friend of mine and he mentioned how he's always wanted to start a kale farm; had he told me this a year ago I may have thought he was a bit nuts, but now my first reaction is, "OK, what's step one?"

There will always be a reason (or a person) to tell you not to do something, and the reasons will be valid. In business, it's usually that someone else is already doing it, or that competition is too fierce. But for those who give it a try, the lessons learned from trying, in my opinion, far outweigh the common sense used in abandoning the idea. You miss 100% of the shots you don't take, said the Great One, and I could not agree more.

Or was that Micheal Scott who said it...?

Anyway, the first half of 2015 has been great and the second half is shaping up to be quite interesting. A few weddings and corporate events are on the way; I'll try my best to keep this blog updated.

Have a great weekend, and enjoy that summer air while it lasts.

The Short Game

Let's face it: most men wouldn't mind being a little bit taller (or a lot taller, and I include myself in that category). Unfortunately, there aren't many options out there for a man to increase his height, unless he's willing to go on the extreme and slip on stilettos, but that's pretty rare. A man could buy a dress shoe with a thicker heal, but other than that, there really aren't any options.

However, there are some tricks that a man can do with his attire which can give the illusion of looking taller (or at least reduce the perception that he looks short). These simple tricks, if done properly, can make a man look taller, more proportionate and, most importantly, sharply dressed. For those who are vertically challenged, it's my hope that these tips below will provide some assistance to you at your next suited event.

Have the end of your tie touch the face of your belt.

No more, no less. A short tie looks extremely awkward, and a long tie creates the illusion that the wearer is even shorter than he really is; therefore, it's best to tie a tie so that it runs all the way down to the face of the belt.

Consider tapering your pants

Some people love tapered pants; others cringe at it, mostly because they think of the extreme (like skinny jeans or George Stroumboulopoulos on HNIC). But honestly, tapering just means that the ankle opening is smaller than the thigh and knee. In fact, a lot of pants advertised as 'straight cut' are actually slightly tapered. By taking in a bit (or more, if you want) at the ankles, you can create varying degrees of tapering, which can make your legs look longer, and hence give you a taller look.

L to R: Skinny, slim, narrow, regular.

Wear shorter jackets and jacket sleeves

I think this single-handedly makes or breaks the perception of the 'short' man, particularly the sleeves because it's so easily noticeable. If you are on the shorter side and you wear a jacket that is even a tad too long, you'll look even shorter, and it'll look like you borrowed your suit from your dad. As mentioned previously, altering the length of a jacket (and/or sleeves) is not very expensive, so it's worth making the adjustments in order for it to fit properly. For the shorter man, try to wear a jacket that ends just before the bottom of your pants zipper; this will leave your legs more exposed, making them look longer. And for your sleeves, try to have them so that they end around the ball of your wrist so that your full hand is visible when your arms are by your side.

Last but not least, do what your mother told you and stand up straight. You have no idea what posture can do for your look!