Suiting Up for the Job Hunt

When I was in undergrad, I used to loathe the months of September and October because that meant it was job hunting season: in between classes, students would be running to networking nights, office tours and wine and cheeses in an effort to land their next job placement. It made me anxious, and it was tough because I had to put on a good face even when I wasn't feeling the best. I haven't been exposed to that in a long time, but I still remember it like it was yesterday.

About two weeks ago, I attended the Annual Sprott Fashion Show held at Carleton University. It's an event that Sprott puts on for students to educate them on how to dress once they enter the workforce (either upon graduation or during a co-op term). It also coincides with Sprott Frosh Week (i..e "Sprosh Week"), so the majority of attendants were young. Having graduated from Sprott myself, it was definitely a lot of fun to be back on campus and seeing fresh faces; the only downside was it reminded me that I'm no longer "young".

The first half of the Show was a runway segment, where models donned business casual wear so students could get a better idea of what was considered appropriate. This was - undoubtedly - HIGHLY entertaining because the models strutting down the runway were current Carleton students who had volunteered, so there was a great deal of cheering and catcalling from spectators. I was amazed that most of these Carleton models were able to keep a straight face while on the catwalk.

The second half was more about what to look for when shopping for work clothes, and I was asked to present some tips, tricks and best practices for the male audience. Guys and shopping don't always mix well together, so here are some of the points I went over during the Show:

Think long term.

Most students shop because they need something right now. But, what they don't think about is what they may need in the future. For students, they're mostly thinking that they'll need a suit to wear at networking nights and job interviews, but there are several other 'life events' that will require a suit, such as graduation, day-to-day work clothes, parties (i.e. corporate functions, Christmas/New Year's parties, other) and attending weddings.

All of these life events could be within the next three, six or 12 months. Therefore, it's a good idea to think long term; what kind of suit would fit all these occasions? A suit that could fulfill your present and future needs will not only be good for your closet, but your wallet too.

Consider the G.N.C.

When you're young, you probably don't have many workplace outfits in your closet. This is especially true for students who have little to no work experience. Therefore, it's a good idea to start building a wardrobe that is versatile and can stand the test of time. Starting off with a Grey, Navy and/or Charcoal suit is a great way to construct your wardrobe; these three complement most colours and accessories, and have also stood the test of time.

A student asked me why I hadn't recommended Black. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with black; it's just not as versatile as G.N.C. Black is considered more formal and can only really go with black shoes and belt, whereas G.N.C. can accommodate various colours. Every man will ultimately wear a black suit at some point, so it's not a bad one to have, but G.N.C. would be a better starting point.

Avoid aggressive looks.

Not everyone likes the sock game.

This was a hot topic because everyone has varying opinions on what is considered 'aggressive'. In essence, it's important to remember that the individual(s) who will be interviewing, assessing, and offering you a job are probably older; therefore, their style preferences will be different. For example, while you and your friends may like to play the sock game, it probably doesn't resonate well with an older crowd. It's best to leave aggressive looks outside the workplace.

All in all, it was a great event and I was happy to have been a part of it. Happy job hunting to you all you hardworking students out there. Best of luck, and see you soon in the workplace.

Suit Options for the Groom

Noticing the bride at a wedding is pretty easy, but the same cannot always be said for the groom. With a sea full of suits, it can be more difficult, especially if there are fellow groomsmen who are in similar attire. Sometimes I get asked what variations can be done to a groom's suit, so here are some ways to do so:

Go with a different colour.

While not always the case, some grooms who want to be a bit more bold will wear a different colour than his fellow groomsmen. I've always liked the contrast of black and blue (no Back Street Boys reference, I swear), so having the groom wear a bolder colour (like blue) while the groomsmen wear a more traditional colour (like black or grey) can be very complementary. The ensemble at the end of the movie I Love You, Man, always comes to my mind as a great example.

From I Love You, Man (2009)

(If you haven't watched it already, I'd highly recommend it. Paul Rudd's comedic timing could not be more on point, and his wardrobe in the movie ain't bad, either!)

Wear different accessories.

A more subtle - yet still very effective - variation of having the groom stand out is to wear different accessories. This could be in the form of pocket squares, ties, etc. I've found that many grooms also like the idea of going with a 3-piece suit while the groomsmen wear a 2-piece suit. Either that, or the groom wears a different vest colour to stand out.

The vest, in particular, can be a great accessory because it adds more layers and colours, making it great for photos. The only downside I've noticed about vests is that it does add an extra layer to the body, so it the groom may get hot during the wedding (especially if it's in the middle of summer). That being said, the groom could always alternate by taking his jacket on and off, still looking well put together in the vest.

Change up the lapels.

A more subtle change-up would be to go with a different lapel than the rest of the groomsmen. About a month ago, this navy suit was made for TJ Berg, a client of mine who will be getting married this May in Ottawa. To stand out, he and his fiancé chose to add a little black and blue contrast by making the lapels satin black. Out of all suits I've worked with, this one is probably one of my favourites.

There are plenty more options, but these three have been the most popular and effective, in my opinion. I've found that subtleties usually make a better impact than something aggressive, and also allows for suits to be worn in future on different occasions.

Best wishes to all couples who are in the midst of planning their weddings. Cheers!

Husky Strategy

At the request of a reader who read The Short Game, I've compiled a list of tips for the Husky Gentleman. Admittedly, I had to look up what 'husky' meant; embarrassing, I know. What can I say? Urban Dictionary has been a godsend.

Anyways, hope these tips will help out a few gentlemen out there. Please note that these strategies are not just for the husky gentleman, but could also be used for the tall or large-framed man.

Focus on the fit. A lot.

Regardless of the colour, style or fabric, the fit of a suit will always be the most important factor. For the husky gentleman, it's often natural to pick out a suit that is bigger than your frame, mostly because it's better than going with a suit that's too tight. And, it gives you breathing room in case you put on a few extra pounds later. Nonetheless, try to find a suit that drapes naturally over your body; there shouldn't be any significant creases, bulging or air pockets. Always try to find a suit that has clean lines around your shoulders (i.e. virtually no air pockets) and chest (the suit lapels should drape downwards without disturbance).

Stick to solid coloured suits.

Patterned and textured suits can look really nice on a man, but may be overwhelming, especially if you are on the husky side. For example, a window pane suit (pictured below) looks fashionable and trendy, but the square pattern aims to make the wearer appear wider and bigger. This effect is likely the opposite of what a husky gentleman would want.

Therefore, it would be safer to go with a solid suit. But do not confused 'safe' with 'boring'; there is nothing boring about a safe suit, especially if it complements the wearer's body frame. If you'd like to add some pattern, wear a patterned tie and/or pocket square to add a little extra texture.

Go with a wider lapel and tie.

The general rule of thumb is to have the tie width be the same as the suit jacket lapel. That way, the ensemble looks balanced and proportionate.

For those who have broad shoulders, going with wider suit jacket lapels and ties can add additional balance to your look. A standard lapel/tie will usually be around 2.5~3.0 inches; therefore, you could try going with a 3.5~4.0 inch lapel/tie combination instead to cover more real estate across your chest and make your look even more proportionate.

For example, Dwayne Johnson (pictured above left) has really broad shoulders and often goes with extra-wide peak lapels and ties, which goes well with his frame.

Cater to your face.

What?

While not crucial, picking out a particular shirt collar to go with the shape of your face can make a difference when putting your look together. For those with round faces, a forward point collar is the most complementary since the collar is longer and downward pointing, making the wearer appear thinner. Conversely, those with angular shaped faces could choose to wear semi or full spread collars.

Wear straight cut pants.

L to R: Slim, Fitted, Straight, Loose

Finally, going with straight cut pants is recommended for the husky gentleman. Slim fit or extreme tapering may be very uncomfortable for larger individuals (especially in the thigh area) and the appearance may not be flattering. If the wearer really tapers his pants (i.e. small ankle openings), it will make him look extremely top heavy, especially if his mid-section and chest are broad. The imbalance will be reminiscent of the guys who skip leg day at the gym.

"There is no such thing as leg day," said this champion.

At the end, it really comes down to fit. You can play with all the colours, fabrics and styles all you want, but the fit will really determine whether you look put together or not. If you do generally wear suits that are too big, try going down a size; the end result is cleaner lines, less bulging and a better look. I'm not saying that you should go out and wear the smallest suit you can fit into, but it might be worth trying on a jacket that's just a touch closer to your skin. It never hurts to try out a fitted jacket.

It also never hurts to exercise your legs.

How to Beat the Heat

From "Charity Drive" - Arrested Development, S1 E5

If you've been living in Ottawa (or the greater southern Ontario region) this summer, you'll know that we've just recently endured one of the hottest, stickiest two-week stints in quite some time. The humidity has been near 100% and temperatures were reaching the high thirties, sometimes even forties (Celsius). This past weekend's cooler temperatures were a welcoming relief, but it's entirely possible that another heat wave will present itself.

For most, suits definitely wouldn't be the first choice when combating extreme heat, but in many cases it's unavoidable. (i.e. work, weddings, etc.) But is there anything you can do to beat the heat? Definitely, and here are some options:

Don't ride a bike while wearing a suit in a heat wave.

--- OK, that was just for the Arrested Development fans out there. If you haven't watched Arrested Development, do yourself a favor and binge-watch the entire series.

Wear a lighter-coloured suit.

If you have the option of wearing a lighter colour, do it. Dark suits, such as navies, charcoals and blacks absorb a lot more light under the sun and heat up much more than a light coloured suit.

Can you get by with just a vest?

This may not work in all circumstances, but consider scraping the jacket for a day and just go with a vest. Going without a jacket may be too informal for some occasions, but subbing in a vest instead will keep your look more formal and cool (both temperature and style wise).

Stay away from synthetic fabrics.

Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, nylon or some other sort of poly blend, are produced entirely from chemicals and do not breathe as well as natural fabrics such as cotton and wool. While synthetics have great advantages (such as durability, affordability and structure), natural fabrics are much better in dealing with extreme heat. Contrary to popular belief, a wool suit will actually be much cooler in the summer than a synthetic because there is better ventilation (wool will also be warmer in the winter). In addition, natural fabrics tend to be lighter in weight than a synthetic, so the wearer will actually feel lighter when wearing a natural fabric.

The lining in suits also varies from synthetic to natural fabrics; if you go with a natural fabric lining, chances are the suit will be more breathable.

And finally, the best way to beat the heat is...

To wear cutoffs like Tobias.

Colour Guide

I found this very comprehensive colour guide (see below) which shows what types of shoes go well with certain suits. It's a great reference for those who wish to have a little guidance. Hope this helps you the next time you're contemplating what to wear!